An Ode to Resilience: What We Can Learn from the Grandeur of Accra's Cultural Festival.

After over 50 editions navigating the worldwide Black diaspora, this marks a last piece. The tenure has been incredibly fulfilling, with immense thanks directed to every one of the dedicated audience.

Inside Accra Cultural Week

Experiencing the exhibitions, installations and performances of the festival, one sees how exceptional art sustains and shapes a country’s history and identity. The centrepiece was undoubtedly the artist's remarkable [Dis]Appearing Rituals: An Open Lab of Now for Tomorrow, which showcased his groundbreaking afrogallonism for all to see: a philosophy that converts plastic containers into captivating art pieces, assemblages of golden hues. The exhibition was designed as a homage to the resilience of Jamestown, a historical quarter of Accra.

Jamestown – largely inhabited by the Ga community, a fishing community – is also where a great number of returning Africans arrived from South America and established themselves in the 19th century. Called the Tabom people, they carried with them Portuguese language and traditions.

Throughout Jamestown, you can see a fusion of architecture. You'll find a historic building, boasting its characteristic colonial-era brickwork and door arches. Another landmark is the famous lighthouse of Jamestown, built in the 1871 and eventually given its recognizable red-and-white-striped exterior.

Traditions of Remembrance

Also notable about Jamestown is the pervasive sight of obituary announcements. On every corner, whether affixed to walls or on big hoardings, one finds funeral details and expressions of mourning. In Jamestown, as throughout Ghana, final rites are large-scale social gatherings.

In the artist's breathtaking installation, every aspect of the sensory and spiritual landscape of Jamestown are evoked – notably in the engaging shoreline work. Within it, one is relaxed by the sound of ocean surf with beach material at your feet, while shacks, draped nets and images of vessels pay homage to its spirited, generational seafaring tradition. Yet standing in this venue, it's hard to ignore the heaps of discarded clothing that compromise the aesthetics and peace of the shoreline.

Apart from the Main Event

The festival program included much more. Housed in an unfinished structure at the local university, creator Reginald Sylvester II presented On the Other Side of Languish, an incredibly moving, minimalist presentation that displayed three-dimensional works and artworks made in collaboration with welders.

Also featured was the competition for female artists for female Ghanaian artists. It featured the inaugural exhibition of a recent recipient, whose work draws on familial archival records to craft a depiction of life in the nation's recent history. The event also honored a current champion, whose diverse work is intensely invested in the craft techniques of women in the Volta region.

An Enduring Presence

While the overseas community has more and more been drawn home to the region in the colder season, a growing cohort are thinking about journeying earlier in the year to experience the area's cultural season. From this festival and other major events, what you’ll find are creative communities that are not merely nascent or “upcoming” but have forged an entire universe that is enduring.

Ultimately, the experience provides a vision of Accra that feels like a manifesto for ecological stewardship and the preservation of tradition. It is a powerful homage to perseverance in all its expressions.

Alexandra James
Alexandra James

Award-winning investigative journalist with over 15 years of experience covering political and social issues across Europe.